Reprinted from the 2-11-99: The Main Line Times & The News of Delaware County
Jeweler's Advice on Choosing a Diamond
--by John Anthony Jr., G.G. (GIA)
Special to the Times
"In the United States, two and a half million couples become engaged annually. About 70% of brides to be will receive a diamond engagement ring.
There are traditional and contemporary setting variations for diamond engagement rings, but generally speaking there are seven major diamond shapes: round brilliant-cut, marquise, emerald-cut, pear-shaped, oval, princess and heart-shape. Of these more than 75% of all diamonds sold are round stones.
Traditionally, the solitaire, a single round diamond prong-set in platinum or gold, epitomizes the American engagement ring. Now the fancy shape diamonds are considered classics as well. An engagement ring set with baguettes, trilliants, or pear-shape side stones is also beautiful and quite popular.
The larger the diamond carat weight, the rarer it is; the purer the diamond clarity, the more valuable it is; the less color in a diamond, the more beautiful; and the more precise the cut of the diamond, the more brilliant it is. It is the combination of these individual factors that make up the diamond's overall quality and determines its beauty.
Clarity is an indication of a diamond's purity. In all diamonds, except the most rare, tiny traces of minerals, gasses, or other elements were trapped inside during the crystallization process. These are called inclusions, and may look like tiny crystals, clouds, or feathers and they're what make each diamond different and unique. Many of these inclusions are not visible to the naked eye. The clarity of a diamond is graded by how many, how big and how visible the inclusions are. The fewer and smaller the inclusions, the more rare and valuable the diamond. Less than 1% of all diamonds ever found have had no inclusions and can be called flawless (FL) or internally flawless (IF).
Since the late 1980's the clarity of a diamond can be enhanced through a process called "Fractured Filling". This most controversial gemstone treatment is achieved by filling surface reaching breaks or through laser drilled holes in the diamond. Many of these diamonds are reaching the consumer but these chemically enhanced diamonds should be disclosed by law. The Gemological Institute of America will not do a diamond grading report (certificate) on a diamond that has been treated.
While the diamonds appear colorless, or white, they may actually have subtle yellow or brown tones that can be detected when comparing diamonds side by side. Diamonds were formed under intense heat and pressure, and traces of other elements may have been incorporated into their atomic structure accounting for the variances in color. Diamond color grades start at D and continue through the alphabet. Truly colorless stones, graded D, are extremely rare and very valuable. The closer a diamond is to being colorless, the rarer and the more valuable it is. A single change in color grade can significantly affect a diamond's value.
If the cut is too deep or too shallow light will spill through the side or bottom and be lost, resulting in a less brilliant display and thus, a less valuable diamond. The cut plays a large part in determining the value of a diamond. A well-cut diamond will be considerably more beautiful and valuable than a poorly cut stone of the same size, clarity, and color.
When you go to purchase a piece of fine jewelry, you're making an important decision. Don't let yourself be dazzled into selecting something without asking questions. As a consumer, you have a right to know. The right jeweler should be one you can rely on for all your jewelry purchases, year after year.
Finding a jeweler
If you follow these guidelines, you should be successful in finding a jeweler who is reliable. Chances are the longer the store has been involved in the community, the more solid it is. Asking friends, neighbors or business associates about their experiences with various retailers can be an excellent way to select a jeweler and it can steer you away from the wrong jeweler. If you have doubts, contact your local Better Business Bureau, Jewelers Board of Trade or Chamber of Commerce.
Maintaining the fine jewelry you have purchased will be important as time passes. Ask if the jeweler is able to clean, size, engrave, restring or remount jewelry. Be sure to inquire about the time period for returning jewelry. Ask whether you will be allowed an exchange or a cash refund, if this is of concern to you.
Find out if the store's "discounted" jewelry was ever sold at the regular price and for how long. It is also wise to compare actual value from jeweler to jeweler, so you have a better sense of relative cost for items of similar quality.
Selection is an important factor in choosing a jeweler. Determine if it reflects your taste and meets your needs.
How long has the store been in business?
Has the store just opened recently, or is it well established? Chances are, the longer the store has been involved in the community, the more solid it is.
What is the jeweler's reputation?
Asking friends, neighbors, or business associates about their personal experiences with various retailers can be an excellent way to select an outstanding jeweler. Just as importantly, this could help you avoid choosing the wrong jeweler. If you are doubtful about a retailer, you might consider contacting your local Better Business Bureau, Jewelers Board of Trade or Chamber of Commerce for any negative reports.
What services does the jewelry store offer?
Maintaining the fine jewelry you have purchased will be important to you as time passes. Ask if the jeweler is able to clean, size, engrave, restring, or remount jewelry.
What is the store's return policy?
Be sure to inquire about the time period for returning jewelry. Also ask whether you will be allowed an exchange or a cash refund, if this is of concern to you.
Does the store regularly feature discounts?
Some stores continually discount prices as a means of attracting customers. Find out if the "discounted" jewelry was ever sold at the regular price and for how long. It is also wise to compare actual value from jeweler to jeweler, so you have a better sense of relative costs for items of similar quality.
Does the store offer a wide selection of jewelry?
As in any retail store where you enjoy shopping, selection is an important factor in your choice. Compare the selection a jewelry store has to offer, and determine if it reflects your taste and meets your needs.
What information can the store share with you?
Does the store provide you with information that will help you select and care for your fine jewelry? Booklets and brochures should be available to you to help guide you in your purchases and answer questions you may have.
In gauging what to spend on a diamond engagement ring, jewelers often recommend using two months salary as a guideline. In fact, 65% of men aware of the guideline feel it is a useful tool in deciding what to spend.
Because every diamond has its own characteristics, and no two stones are exactly alike, knowledge of the diamond industry and the nature of diamonds require years of extensive study. It is important to purchase your diamond from a jeweler who is a Graduate Gemologist. In comparing stones for the best combination of the 4C's only a Graduate Gemologist can truly explain all the factors that make up a fine gem."
"John Anthony Jr., whose store is in Bala Cynwyd, is a Graduate Gemologist GIA, appraiser, designer and custom jeweler. He is certified in diamonds/grading, colored stones/grading and gem identification."
Reprinted from the 2-11-99: The Main Line Times & The News of Delaware County